To make a bust dart, measure from the Front Length across the bust line the bust tip divided by two. Subtract the Front Waist Length from the Back Waist Length and mark this measurement an inch above the waistline. For instance, my Front Waist Length is 25 (Measuring over the boobs gives a good indication of cup size, remember) and my Back Waist Length is 15. So I would take a five inch dart in the side of the garment. If you have a large cup size this is going to look really weird and freakish compared to commerical patterns. Don’t flip out. Really. Commercial patterns are drafted to a B cup. You’ve probably never seen something drafted to your shape before.- To make a waist dart, measure from the Front Length across the waistline the waist measurement divided by eight. Measure up two inches and down two inches. Then from the center line, measure one half inch on each side for a one inch dart. Connect the points to the waistline.
- Add 5/8″ to 1″ all around the outside of the pattern for your seam allowance. (Forgetting this is sad. I’ve had it happen. Makes for a too-tight garment.)
Congratulations. You’re done with the front. That wasn’t so hard, was it?
Now, to move on to the Salwar Kameez Back.
Hey! Neol. I’m totally lost in the bust darts explanation!! Can you please explain how and where to place these darts in a different way!
Could you please tell me how to find steps 1 to 6 for the front? Your instructions are brilliant. Thank you.
cuting salwar kameez
Good morning
I just wanted to drop you a line to say that as a trained pattern maker I find your instructions on drafting a Salwar Kameez to be the absolute best I have EVER come across. Your explanation of the dart width (where it starts at the side seam) and why it is there is fantastic. I am really impressed. If this is down and dirty pattern making, I wish there other downed and dirty instructions on the net.
Congratulations.
Kim