- To make a bust dart, measure from the Front Length across the bust line the bust tip divided by two. Subtract the Front Waist Length from the Back Waist Length and mark this measurement an inch above the waistline. For instance, my Front Waist Length is 25 (Measuring over the boobs gives a good indication of cup size, remember) and my Back Waist Length is 15. So I would take a five inch dart in the side of the garment. If you have a large cup size this is going to look really weird and freakish compared to commerical patterns. Don’t flip out. Really. Commercial patterns are drafted to a B cup. You’ve probably never seen something drafted to your shape before.
- To make a waist dart, measure from the Front Length across the waistline the waist measurement divided by eight. Measure up two inches and down two inches. Then from the center line, measure one half inch on each side for a one inch dart. Connect the points to the waistline.
- Add 5/8″ to 1″ all around the outside of the pattern for your seam allowance. (Forgetting this is sad. I’ve had it happen. Makes for a too-tight garment.)
Congratulations. You’re done with the front. That wasn’t so hard, was it?
Now, to move on to the Salwar Kameez Back.